The only thing I can think of is that the inductance in the fan causes the output current through the GFI outlet to lag the input current, which causes the outlet to blow.InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. The intresting thing is that with the switch in the on position, and the GFI breaker blown, I can reset the GFI breaker by pushing the reset botton on the outlet then the fan comes on and stays on. I do not have the light plugged in as well. However, when I flip the switch for the fan, the GFI outlet blows. And I'm almost certain that the circuit is run corretly. Then from the fixutre the circuit runs to a switch on the wall. Power then runs to the fan/light fixture in the shower. Thus everything there after is GFI protected. Power comes into then out of the GFI outlet on the vanity. I wired the fixutre off of the GFI outlet on the vanity. According to NJ code, I had to put this fixutre on a GFI protected circuit. I put an exhaust fan/light fixture inside the shower stall. Your time in looking at this is greatly appreciated. As for the future, if I add another boatlift (or 2?), can the boatlift circuit described above handle it? How would it be tied in? Also, would it help to splice larger gauge cable from shore to boathouse to help reduce voltage drop?Ĥ. Is the 185' run from the house too long for my current plans? I'm getting mixed feedback from different sources. Should I use a disconnect box, and if so, where should it be located? I'm assuming I can combine both circuits/breakers in a single box.ģ. Am I correct in thinking a subpanel is not an option without retrenching new cable with more conductors?Ģ. Back at the house would be a 20A 2-pole breaker for the boatlift and either a 20A (or 15A due to voltage drop) 1-pole breaker for the GFCI outlet.ġ. The GFCI outlet would probably also feed a couple of lights. There, they would go to either a) a disconnect at the boathouse, or b) to their respective terminal devices - a boatlift switch with GFCI for the 10/2, and a GFCI outlet for the 12/2. So, I thought I'd either bring up the 10/2 and 12/2 to a disconnect box on shore just before the pier, or do underground splices, probably with resin/expoxy versus heat-shrinkable tubing, and run them out to the boathouse. The subpanel also does not have a single main breaker in it. I was planning on abandoning the 8/4 cable and subpanel at the boathouse, since the 10/2 cable does not have a neutral conductor to feed the subpanel. It seemed to be buried shallow, so I kept pulling and found.get terminated a few feet away to a 120V plug! It never ceases to amaze me what people will do! Well, I was going to abandon the junction box anyway, since it was filling up with water at very high tide, so I'm trying to determine my next step. Since the cable going from the junction box to the house looked very suspect (like a heavy duty appliance extension cord), I pulled it up a little. There is a junction box at the start of pier where this cable is join to another cable via wire nuts. It is fed with 8/4 ga (insulated ground) that is in plastic conduit. I tested them at that point and they seem OK.Īpparently, someone had also installed a subpanel at the boathouse at some later time. They were in bad condition under the pier, so I cut them back to the point where they exit the shoreline to the start of the pier. These cables are 12/2 ga and 10/2 ga, each with bare copper ground conductor. There are 2 UF cables that were originally run all the way from the house main panel to the boathouse, which is about 185' away. The boatlift motor will require about 5.5 to 6 amps at 240V. I plan to install a boatlift in my boathouse and need to update the old electric that was run to it.
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